The Magic and Art of Oaxaca

 

Oaxaca

Nestled in the mountains, five hours south of Mexico City, lies the city and state of Oaxaca. Graced with wonderful people and inviting weather, it is an area rich in pre-Hispanic history. Oaxaca is home to 16 indigenous tribes, many of whom still speak their original languages. It is also the site of the Zapotec ruins of Monte Alban, a city built 1,000 years before the Maya built the pyramids in the Yucatan. It is no small wonder this is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

 

 

Oaxaca is touched by the mystery of ancient ritual,

lore and wisdom. Its passion and adventure extend to the folk arts: crafts, pottery, weaving, etc. Even the cuisine is touched by the memories of old-world flavours: the Seven Moles, Oaxacan cheese (quesillo), chapulines (barbecued grasshoppers), and mescal, a spirit similar to tequila.

Tapetes (Carpets)

The pueblo of Teotitlan del Ville is famous for its weaving. For centuries, families have passed on the tradition of weaving; today, many families are seventh generation weavers. Watching these weavers at their craft reveals an artistry that is instinctive, innate. It is as though they were born knowing how to mix the designs and colours. This is why the tapetes seem alive.

Meet Samuel. He took me to his family’s home in the village of Oaxaca where I had the honour of watching his father weave.

During my visit, Samuel told me about the history and symbolism of the designs and showed me how his family makes the dyes.

 

 

 

The History of Tapetes

Since 500 B.C., the Zapotecs of the central valleys of Oaxaca have been weaving and trading their textiles, originally made from cotton, all over Latin America. After being conquered by the Aztecs and later the Spanish, they were introduced to the wool of the Merino sheep, prized for its long fibers. This wool has become an integral material in Zapotec tapetes.

Selecting Tapetes

For a rug to be of top quality, it should be tightly woven with about 20 threads/inch. This ensures that the rug looks more refined and holds its shape longer. Most rugs are woven on a cotton warp that gives more strength, however, all-wool rugs are softer and have more body. A good rug will lie completely flat, whether on the floor or hanging on the wall, and will have straight edges.

 

All Natural Dyes

The beauty of these rugs lies in the subtle tones that no chemical dye can reproduce.

The dyes come from natural sources and reflect the colours of the natural world. Browns and tans are drawn from lichen, twigs, berries, flowers, pecan bark, and walnut husks. The huisache seed husks yield enough pigment for black while guaje husks give an earthy red-brown. The more vibrant greens come from alfalfa and purul leaves. Pomegranates produce yellows. Blues are made with indigo and reds come from the cochineal - an insect that lives on the nopal cactus. The color of cochineal is called 'nocheztli', which means ‘blood of the prickly pear’. Adding lime juice to the cochineal produces a brilliant red.

Much like the perfumers of 18th century Europe, each artisan family has trade secrets, special blends and combinations that are their signature.

 

 

The Symbolism of Tapetes Patterns

Zapotec Eye of God

 

Mountain Rain

 

The Stars – ‘Las Estrellas’

 

Unity Pattern

 

 

 

 

 

 

This 'unity' motif decorates the ruins at Mitla. At the Mayan ruins in Yucatan and Chiapas, this pattern is symbolic of the beginning, the essence, the egg-creator and wind. It invites us to ponder the question 'where does the wind come from'?

 

Unity patterns at Mitla

 

Black Pottery

A small pueblo outside of Oaxaca - San Bartolo De Coyotepec - is known throughout the world for its black clay pottery.

 

The pottery made by the woman in this photo stood out; her work has a refined sensibility some of the other artisans did not have. It was not surprising to discover she was one of the few women in the village with a fine arts degree.

 

Alebrijes - Wooden Animal Carvings

Alebrijes are the famous and highly collectible brightly-coloured Mexican folk art sculptures of fantastical creatures from the pueblo of Arrazola. Some of the creatures even look like the animals that inspired them.